III. How is it made?
Since cloisonné enamel is exquisitely made and highly valued, the Ming and Qing emperors loved it deeply and it is said that to prevent cloisonne from flowing into the civilian population, the production techniques were kept extremely confidential. When making cloisonne, craftsmen had to complete all the steps in batches and each craftsman could only master one or two processes in their lifetime. However, nowadays cloisonné production is not a secret anymore, and can be roughly divided into eight major steps.
1. Sketching
The first step in creating a cloisonné work is to design a pattern based on one's creative ideas, and invest a cloisonné product with artistic value.
The creator of cloisonné enamel must be familiar with the production process and raw materials of cloisonné, and have a good understanding of the characteristics of cloisonné art in order to create a piece.
2. Base creation
The production starts from the creation of a base. The base is made of malleable copper sheets, which are cut according to a pre-designed pattern. The sheets are then pounded and trimmed into different shapes or cut into different circles, and hammered with an iron hammer to create various types of copper bases. For special shapes and high-quality products, the entire process is made by hand from start to finish.
3. Filigree
It is the most demanding process in the production of cloisonné.
Soft, thin and resilient copper wire is made first, then tweezers are used to bend, twist, fold, and roll it into shapes according to the pre-designed pattern.
4. Attaching the elements
The master uses tweezers to hold the filigreed flattened copper wire and then dips it into the white lead paste. Following the pre-designed pattern, attach the copper wire to the copper base. Since white lead will melt upon contact with fire, a layer of silver solder powder must also be sprinkled onto the copper base covered with copper wire. After being heated at a high temperature of over 900 degrees, the copper wire is firmly attached to the copper base.
5. Colouring
It is a technique of filling the pattern on the copper wire with various coloured powdered glazes using a tool (usually a tube). The colors inside the pattern gradually blend to create a realistic and detailed effect, similar to the technique of "gōngbǐ" (工笔) in Chinese painting.
6. Baking
The baking process is closely coordinated with the colouring, and it is different from brazing. It is necessary to ensure that the baking environment is relatively clean and dust-free, and the visual accuracy of the firing temperature needs to be extremely accurate.
After being melted at a high temperature of more than 800 degrees, the powdered glaze is melted into a flat and bright glaze. After repeated glazing and baking three to four times, the glaze can be made flat with the copper wire, so that the artefact is covered with a gorgeously colourful coat.
7. Polishing
Using materials such as sand, yellow stone, and charcoal, the surface of the enamel, silk threads, bottom threads, and mouth threads are manually polished to make the cloisonne part shiny and bright.
8. Gilding
To prevent the copper base from oxidising and rusting, the mouth rim, foot ring, and exposed copper wire patterns of these artwork are gilded to make them look new and more solemn.
Check out this Youtube video for the crafting process:
IV. A reviving heritage once overlooked
Similar to other traditional techniques in China or elsewhere in the world, this practice encounters obstacles in terms of preservation and continuity. It was once at risk of being disappearing due to the dwindling number of skilled craftsmen and the emergence of mass production techniques.
Moreover, the application of this technique was primarily limited to ornamental objects like vases, which are not commonly sought-after by individuals, for instance, at state level, Cloisonné Enamel artworks are often selected as gift for diplomatic exchanges.
Another challenge is regarding aesthetic area, in another word, the design of Cloisonné Enamel creation. These artworks have typically adhered to a traditional style for an extended period, which may no longer align with contemporary preferences.
Here are some classic patterns people use to create a cloisonné sketch and their meanings:
1. The spiral pattern
It can be traced back to the ethnic origin of the Mongolian people. After Genghis Khan unified the Central Plains and established the Yuan Dynasty in the 13th century, the spiral pattern was integrated into Han culture. It symbolizes good luck and prosperity, and the entire pattern is full and three-dimensional. If you start coiling from any starting point on the edge, you will never go back.
2. Honeysuckle patterns
They were originated from ancient Greece and have undergone various cultural influences before being introduced to China, where they have been expressed in different styles in different regions and eras. The introduction of honeysuckle patterns allowed Chinese craftsmen with profound skills in line drawing to express themselves more freely. They combined the unique wavy structure of honeysuckle patterns with traditional Chinese cloud patterns to create the Tang-style scroll pattern, which is both beautiful and meaningful.
3. Twine pattern
Also known as "wisteria", is one of the traditional auspicious patterns, symbolizing good luck and happiness. The twining branches are continuous and represent endless growth. It is derived from the twisting and changing of vines and grasses, originated in the Han Dynasty and has been popular since the Southern and Northern Dynasties until the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The patterns can be combined with various floral patterns.
4. Grape pattern
In Buddhist art, the bodhisattva holding grapes represents the abundance of grains, hence the grape pattern has the meaning of abundant food. In addition, the vines and leaves of grapes spread out and the fruits are abundant, which is particularly close to people's desire for longevity of their children and prosperity of their families, thus becoming a popular decorative theme.
Turning challenges to opportunities
Nonetheless, craftsmen have made efforts to sustain this unique practice by incorporating it into everyday consumer goods, such as costume jewellery. During the 1980s and 1990s, many children who accompanied their parents on trips to Beijing and visited popular tourist attractions returned home with a cloisonné enamel bracelet as a souvenir.
Additionally, there is a rising fondness for vintage jewellery among the young population in China. This has led to an unexpected phenomenon where they are now embracing "vintage" aspects of their own heritage and culture, and one of the elements that has captured their interest is cloisonné enamel. The power of nostalgia may be at play here, as childhood memories are invoked, imbuing these pieces with greater emotional significance.
Opportunities in this area were identified by the market. In recent years, this renewed interest in traditional crafts and art forms, including cloisonné has prompted numerous contemporary artists and designers to integrate cloisonné enamel into their creations.
Renowned brands have also taken notice of this trend and are trying to meet the public's interest in this artistic genre.
In 2015, a scarf was created through a collaboration between Hermès and the Museum of Decorative Arts (Musee des arts decoratifs) paying tribute to Chinese Cloisonné enamel.
Sisley, a renowned global brand, organised an art salon featuring the exquisite cloisonné enamel. As part of this event, they created a magnificent plate adorned with a birds pattern made of pure copper wire. The customers then filled the pattern on the copper wire with different shades of powdered glazes. The entire process of making this masterpiece was accomplished using the cloisonné technique, a blend of cultural heritage and the brand's unique style. 
In case you haven't noticed, this ancient beauty is about to make an entrance to the world of fashion with some new arrays of creation, perhaps sooner than we expected.
By: Angel Ma